It’s 4pm, Friday afternoon, and just like you, I have been at work all week. To be honest, both my heart and mind have been elsewhere today. A quick drive past the beach on the way to work revealed a solid 6-foot swell with westerly winds, the surf is pumping.
As I say the obligatory goodbyes to my colleagues, I am already focused on hitting the lineup before the sun goes down. Once in the carpark I slide into my wetsuit and hastily scratch wax onto my board.
Moments later, I hit the water. As I duck dive that first wave, I feel the cold saltwater wash over me. Work is done for another week and my only job for now is to decide which set wave to catch.
Strangely, I have the lineup to myself. This is very rare for a Friday afternoon; it must have something to do with the dark clouds that are rolling in. There is a storm brewing and I for one do not care. I need to get a few waves and hit the reset button.
As the first set approaches, I swing my board around and start paddling ferociously. I feel the surge of force from the wave and then bounce up to my feet. The stiff westerly wind is slapping my face as I scream down the wave. Man, I love to surf. This is exactly what I needed to start my weekend.
A few more duck dives and I am back out at the take off zone. As I sit up on my board, I fill my lungs full of salt air at that same very moment, I hear the giant bang of thunder. Wow, that must have been close, because I can almost feel the echo bounce of the cliffs at the southern end of the beach.
I check my watch, 4:50pm. I probably have time for a couple more waves before the sun goes down. When I was younger, I had no problems staying out in the surf until well after dark, but as I have grown older (and maybe wiser), the thought of a visit from “the man in the grey suit”, is ever present in the back of my mind as the sunsets. I am not scared of sharks, but I also am no longer carefree enough to surf during their dinner time.
After two more waves I paddle back out and say to myself, one more. Famous last words, said by many a surfer before me.
As I reach the take off zone, something feels different, like that feeling you get when you are being watched. I look around, but I still have the lineup to myself and then bang, another loud clap of thunder blasts across the bay. My heart is in my mouth, and I nearly fall of my board. Far out, that one was close.
I calm down and start scouring the lineup for that final wave. I am not used to having the waves to myself and feel that I am obliged to make my last one a good one.
As I focus on the horizon, I feel a massive surge of energy, something is not right, what is happening?
Then whoosh, the ocean erupts in front of me. An enormous humpback whale launches itself out of the water. It is ginormous, it is airborne, and it is only 20 meters away from me.
Bang!!! It lands back first into the water. The noise is out of this world. There is water and spray everywhere. I am equal parts terrified and exhilarated.
My heart is racing, my hands are shaking, and it is at this point that I see a giant tail slap the water no more than 10 meters from me. I have no idea what to do. I lie down on my board because sitting up is no longer an option.
I stare in the direction of the tail, but it is gone, disappeared under water. What have I just witnessed? Will it come back? Did anyone else see that?
I lay on my board waiting for that last wave into the beach. However, making sure it is a good one no longer seems relevant. I have already been spoilt, and the waves are now just a bonus.
I am truly mesmerised but what just occurred. This is a moment in time that I will always remember. A real life reminder that we share the ocean with so many amazing creatures.
Thank you, humpback, and thank you mother nature. I came to you for a reset, and you have certainly delivered in spades. Now time for that last wave and a cold beer.
My mates are never going to believe this one.
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